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Hello! Weinkrake is en route again in Berlin to find new exciting locations with an amazing kitchen.
And I found something in Kreuzberg.
Next to me sits Jakob, hello. – Hello, thank you for being here.
I am also very happy to be here and to try some of these hopefully amazing wines that you have chosen.
Today we are at the Horvath. Sorry, my voice… That is probably the excitement.
We would like to talk to you about the wines and, of course, the kitchen which has a unique selling point here in Berlin.
Okay, so the first question is: If you have got a restaurant with one Michelin star in Kreuzberg, next to other famous hotspots…
… How does it work? Is it even working?
– It works very well. It is always nice to see the comparison when guests come in who do not even know where they are. And if you ask them to take there jackets they are a bit perplex.
– I really like this location because it fits to Kreuzberg. Also, because it is very multicultural.
– I believe that we fit into the place even with our suits. It is just something different.
– So, in total it works great. We are being accepted. We have got a nice atmosphere with our terrace looking over the Landwehrkanal. Guests can feel a very different atmosphere to other Michelin star restaurants.
Okay. I think I am going to be able to test it soon because I have never been here before. But it is the right time.
Three associations, spontaneously: Let’s start with natural wine. What can you say about that?
– We do not have any natural wines. We have not specialized on it. Instead, we chose a wine from Austria, Croatia which is a good example.
Okay. A view into your menu told me something about Oliver Zeter and dessert wine. What can you say?
– We actually do not have any wine by Oliver Zeter. We used to have one, but that was before my time. We changed the menu, and the one from Zeter was seen as a wine replacement. Instead, I chose one from Austria, from winery Hardegg.
– It is a good example for port wine from Austria. We decided to have wine mostly from Austria, Germany, Hungary, Slovenia and Croatia.
Nice. And the third association: Your favorite wine? Do you have one?
– At the moment, I have got two. One of them is this one, that I brought today. It was made by a count in the Steiermark.
– The vineyard is in Slovenia, right at the border. You also call it Untersteiermark. It is a Cuvée from a Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Blanc. It is very creamy with the Sauvignon Blanc fruit. At the moment, this is one of the loveliest wines.
– The second one is one I have known for a while, but I have only found it here two months ago. And it is a Rotgipfler from the thermal springs.
– And those two are my favorites at the moment.
It is great that you actually brought one of these wines. I am very excited to try it. You can say something about it in a minute.
And now a question about your main concept. What are you really good at?
– We welcome our guests with the typical Austrian hospitality. We have a smile on our faces and the guest automatically feels good. We have these wooden walls which have been here for over 50 years.
– The guest comes in and is accommodated immediately. There is no pomp or stiffness. We are trying to create a Austrian living room style with gourmet food and a great service.
– But all very friendly and customized. We want to give our guests gourmet kitchen with a nice and normal atmosphere.
Okay, now let’s start with the first wine. Do you want to pour it out?
– I would say that we should start with my favorite.
– This wine is not our menu at the moment. We got it from a baron in the Lüneburger Heide. It is aubergine that was cooked in a caramel brew.
– We are serving some yoghurt with it as a refreshment. It is from Konrad Fürst together with Alexander Groß.
– You can smell the spice mixed with a creaminess. And you have a typical breeze from the Sauvignon fruit. You taste the bright berries. And if you try it…
– … you taste the spice and the fruit of the Sauvignon Blanc. It has power and so it fits very nicely to a trout because you have a smoky aroma and wood.
– Because it is very young, it is only from 2012, it has some sort of freshness to it.
I have heard that you have mostly vegetarian dishes, right?
– That is right. We out vegetables in the front. Meat, fish and vegetables stand on the same step, so to say.
– Vegetables that usually are not in the foreground stand in the front for us. They receive its on dish. Like this, they are the superstar on the plate.
– We also serve vegetables with our desserts. We do not have many desserts with chocolate or that are very sweet. We work with different sorts of vegetables as well.
– We have got one dish at the moment, where the sweet component are roasted beans. And we have got a parsnip-pine cream which has fruity and sweet taste. On the other side there is also radish and chive. So there is definitely vegetarian food in the foreground.
– All vegeterians or people who want to try something else than steak are welcome.
Okay. While you are pouring the next wine, another question: How long have you been in Berlin?
– Since last August, so for a year and two months.
Do you like it? Have you imagined it like that? Especially Kreuzberg?
– I always worked on a mountain and I have never lived in a big city, so it was a big change for me. Everyone said that it would be hard to find somewhere to live and meet new people. But we actually took the first flat we saw.
– It is a very nice location and I have been incorporated nicely. And I have not had any bad experiences in Berlin so far.
– My working place is beautiful and I cannot imagine any other place at the moment. And I honestly cannot say anything negative.
Okay, that is great. – I am happy to have made that step. – That step to the East.
– You really need some trust to move away from the country side to such a big city.
Amazing. So what is next in our glass?
– Now we have got something that is typical for Austria, basically something that has been made in Austria.
It is a Blauer Zweigelt.
– It is from the vineyard Fischer from the thermal springs region.
It is from 2011, so it still needs some time. But I already like it. It is typical for this wine to have sour cherry in it.
And you can smell that very intensively.
And that is also where it stays from its stylistic.
It is relatively fresh, so you feel coldness. But you also taste a bit terrine.
So the sourness with the sour cherry plays a big role. I like this wine a lot. But I have never visited the vineyard before.
And for me, this wine is just typical for Austria.
Meat probably fits very well with this wine. But as we heard it does not have to be meat. What is a good alternative?
With this red wine I would choose something a bit more powerful, like a haunch.
But I also have a good vegetable example: We used to have crème pompadour with beetroot and a wine with more sourness.
And the fruit and sourness harmonise very nicely together. I wanted to take a difference with this Blauer Zweigelt but decided to take a stronger one.
We used to have wild boar with yeast dumplings and cold mint bowl. And we decided to take a strong red wine instead of white wine. One that is more powerful and has a warmer and darker colour.
But this one is not necessarily powerful which is why we did not choose it in the end. But in general, it also is a good example that red wine works great with our dishes.
I think the corporation between you and Sebastian Frank works perfectly. And that is how it is meant to be.
Okay, do you want to say something else about a wine?
– I personally love to drink something with a bit of fizz. So I also love champagne.
– We only have one champagne in our restaurant. We prefer Austrian champagne. And it definitely is able to play in the same league as other’s.
– And that is why I brought an example today by Neumeister from the Steiermark. It is from my home. He makes a fantastic Saziani Brut rosé wine.
– It has very fine bubbles and is not aggressive. It has very light sourness. And it has lovely fruit tastes. And I see this champagne as an example that Austria also creates good champagne.
– I just find it important to show it. And you can tell your guests that you can drink champagne everywhere, but we have got something better.
Great. I hope you are hungry and thirsty now. And if you are in Berlin one day: Come here to Kreuzberg. This is a place where you find everyone.
Thank you for the interview. You probably cannot do anything wrong with this wine and the kitchen is interesting too.
Jakob, I think we should open this bottle afterwards. And you in front of the screen during this already very cold time, …
I wish you warm thoughts and remain faithful to us. See you soon. Ciao!